| Kojima |
The birthplace of Japanese jeans. Located in Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture, with a history of cotton canvas production. |
| OZ / oz |
A unit of measurement for denim fabric weight. Regular weight is typically 13-14 ounces. |
| Jeans |
A Japanese-English word for "jeans," originating from "GI pants" worn by U.S. soldiers after the war. |
| Overalls |
Pants with bibs and suspenders, originally used as workwear with features like hammer loops and scale pockets. |
| Straight |
A type of jeans with a straight silhouette from thigh to hem. |
| Slim |
A silhouette that is narrow overall, tapering drastically at the hem. |
| Tapered |
A silhouette that gradually narrows toward the hem. |
| Bootcut |
A slightly flared silhouette at the hem to accommodate cowboy boots, popular in the 1970s. |
| Wide |
Jeans with a loose and wide silhouette from the thighs to the hem. |
| Rivets |
Copper rivets used to reinforce areas prone to wear, a key detail of traditional jeans. |
| Punched Rivets |
Rivets hammered into denim to reinforce high-stress points, often a hallmark of vintage jeans. |
| Concealed Rivets |
Rivets placed inside the back pocket to strengthen without external visibility, a classic vintage detail. |
| Crotch Rivets |
Rivets placed at the crotch area for reinforcement, often found in vintage jeans. |
| Bartacks |
Bartack stitching for reinforcing areas like pockets or belt loops. |
| Cinches |
Side stitches to secure areas prone to stress and prevent fraying. |
| Coin Pocket |
A small pocket designed initially for pocket watches, now commonly called a coin pocket. |
| Zipper Fly |
Jeans with a zipper closure; the slider and teeth form the fastening mechanism. |
| Button Fly |
Jeans with button closures, where the fly refers to the fabric covering the button or zipper. |
| Cinch Back |
An adjustable belt at the back of the jeans for waist fit, a classic workwear detail. |
| Offset Center Loop |
A rear belt loop positioned slightly off-center to avoid overlapping thick seams, a vintage detail. |
| Pocket Lining |
The pocket lining fabric, typically sturdy and glued for durability. |
| Stitching |
Stitching that enhances design and function, often visible on back pockets as branding. |
| D-Ring |
D-shaped metal hardware attached to the front belt loop for functional or decorative use. |
| Raised Loop |
Raised center belt loops, commonly seen in vintage jeans. |
| Patch |
A brand label on the waistband, often made of leather or paper, adding a signature to jeans. |
| Banzai Loop |
Extended belt loops that resemble a “banzai” shape, sewn simultaneously with the waistband and patch. |
| One-Stitch Construction |
A continuous stitching method where the thread runs uninterrupted, used for attaching patches. |
| Flasher |
Paper tags attached to the back pocket detailing the brand and product features. |
| V-Stitch |
V-shaped stitching at the end points to prevent thread fraying, balancing efficiency and practicality. |
| Wrap Stitch |
A sewing method where both fabrics are wrapped and then double-stitched for durability. |
| Yoke |
The back yoke, a piece of fabric on the rear waistline designed to contour the jeans to the body. |
| Aging |
Changes over time in denim, such as fading, fraying, and rusting of rivets, adding character. |
| Fading / Whiskers |
Fading caused by friction, resulting in contrasts between lighter and darker areas of the denim. |
| Vertical Fading |
Vertical fading patterns on denim caused by wear, highlighting the texture of the fabric. |
| Spot Fading |
Speckled fading, appearing as grainy textures on denim after extended use. |
| Honeycombs |
Honeycomb-shaped fading behind the knees, formed by repetitive bending. |
| Puckering |
Puckering and uneven fading caused by shrinkage of threads and fabric. |
| Beard Fades |
Whisker-like fade marks on the thigh and knee areas, radiating from sitting creases. |
| Single Stitch |
Single-thread stitching on denim, structurally strong and resistant to fraying. |
| Chain Stitch |
Chain-linked stitching on the reverse side of seams, known for its durability and aesthetic fading effects. |
| Union Special |
Union Special sewing machines, renowned for chain-stitching hems on vintage jeans. |
| Repair |
Repair techniques for reinforcing worn-out areas, now often used as a design feature in jeans. |
| Selvedge |
The self-finished edge of denim fabric, often featuring a colored thread, such as red selvedge. |
| Canvas |
Durable canvas fabric, often used in workwear and bags. |
| Twill (Right Hand Twill) |
Right-hand twill, where diagonal twill lines run upward to the right, creating a rugged texture. |
| Twill (Left Hand Twill) |
Left-hand twill, where diagonal twill lines run upward to the left, creating a softer surface. |
| Sizing |
Sizing applied to threads or fabric for added strength and stability during weaving or sewing. |
| Twist (Right Twist/Left Twist) |
Yarn twist direction, either S-twist (right twist) or Z-twist (left twist), affecting fabric texture. |
| Open-End Yarn |
Air-spun yarn created by high-speed rotation, offering productivity but less internal strength. |
| Core-Spun Yarn |
Core-spun yarn with a polyester center wrapped in cotton, combining strength and natural texture. |
| Ring-Spun Yarn |
The white core of dyed yarn, created by rope dyeing, essential for vintage-style fading. |
| Yarn Count |
A measurement unit for yarn thickness, where higher numbers indicate finer yarns. |
| Slub Yarn |
Uneven yarn with irregular thickness, enhancing the textured fading of denim. |
| Cotton Yarn |
Cotton thread made from 100% cotton fibers, valued in vintage denim for its authentic feel. |
| Rope Dyeing |
A dyeing method where cotton threads are repeatedly dipped in indigo, leaving the core white for unique fading. |
| Stone Wash |
A washing technique using pumice stones to create a worn, vintage look on denim. |
| Bio Wash |
A wash using bio-enzymes to subtly distress denim for a delicate worn effect. |
| Rigid (Unwashed) |
Unwashed denim with starch intact, also called raw or rigid denim. |
| One-Wash |
Denim that has undergone a single wash to remove stiffness and stabilize the fabric. |
| Sanforized |
A pre-shrinking process that prevents significant shrinkage after washing. |
| Chemical Wash |
A method that uses oxidizing agents to achieve a faded, distressed look on denim fabric. |
| Garment Dye |
Dyeing garments after they are fully constructed, as opposed to pre-dyeing the fabric or threads. |
| Indigo Dyeing |
Indigo dyeing using fermented natural indigo, traditionally extracted from the tade plant. |
| Indigo |
A synthetic or natural dye used to color denim threads, oxidizing to its characteristic blue hue. |
| Overdye |
Overdyeing a finished product to add layers of color or refresh its appearance. |
| Hank Dyeing |
Skein dyeing, an old method of soaking yarn bundles for deep and even coloration. |
